How To Quickly Understand Woven Fabrics?

When we get a piece of fabric or buy a set of bedding, the first thing we feel is the texture and feel of the fabric, and then we need to understand the most basic parameters of a piece of fabric - width, weight, density, raw material specifications, and ingredients. If a fabric does not have these most basic parameters, then the fabric will basically have no way to communicate and disseminate, and it will not become a commodity. Today I will tell you some professional knowledge analysis of fabrics.

 

Fabric representation method

Example: 2.5F 60S*40S cotton/173*120

● 2.5 is the width length of the fabric, and F is the unit, which means the width of this fabric is 2.5 meters;

● 60S*40S, represents the yarn weaving of this fabric, the warp direction is 60S, the weft direction is 40S, and S is the unit of count, representing 100% cotton fabric;

● 173*120 represents the density of this piece of fabric. The warp direction is 173 threads and the weft direction is 120 threads.

 

Raw material analysis

Generally, we use the method of burning flames and residues to analyze materials.

 

Raw Materials	Burning Flame	The Remains	Odor
Cotton/linen	During combustion, the flame speed is stable, even and continuous burning.	The residue after burning is the same as the ash left behind when burning paper.	Burning paper smell
polyester	It will not burn if placed near a flame, it will melt.	Molten objects removed from the flame will solidify into balls.	It will emit a unique special smell.
wool/silk	Leave the flame to extinguish quickly.	The burning residue is a black solid that will break into pieces when crushed by hand.	There is a smell of burning hair when burning.

 

Judgment of yarn linear density (yarn count)

1. Definition:

Yarn linear density refers to the thickness of the yarn. Generally, the length direction of the fabric is called the warp yarn count, and the width direction is called the weft yarn count. When analyzing woven fabrics, we need to confirm the warp and weft yarn counts separately.

2. Unit of yarn thickness:

①Tex: Also called public count, it refers to the weight in grams of one-kilometer-long yarn under a common moisture regain rate. (my country's textile industry and national standards)

② British count (S): refers to the multiple of the length of 840 yards (0.9144 meters) contained in 1 pound (453.6 grams) of yarn under the public moisture regain rate. (Generally applicable at home and abroad)

③ Denier (D): refers to the weight in grams of 9,000-meter-long yarn under a common moisture regain rate.

3. Conversion between units:

Cotton: tex=583.1/S

Polyester-cotton blend: tex=585/S

Polyester: tex=590.1/S

tex=denier/9

4. Yarn count determination method

Comparison method: Compare the yarns in the fabric with known yarn count with the yarns in the analysis sample. It is best to compare warp yarns with warp yarns and weft yarns with weft yarns. When comparing, compare several sets of thinner yarns before confirming. The judgment is made based on the comparison results and commonly used yarn counts.

 

 

Determination of fabric density
1. Definition: Fabric density: refers to how densely the yarns are arranged in the fabric. Generally expressed by the number of warp threads and weft threads in 1 inch.

2. Tools for measuring fabric density: density mirror

3. Fabric density measurement method

Cut the analysis sample according to the warp and weft directions, and then tear off several warp and weft yarns to expose the yarn ends. Align the scale of the density mirror with the weft yarn, align the 0 scale line with the density mirror pointer on one warp yarn, and turn the screw to count the number of warp yarns until the 1-inch scale line ends. The number of yarns counted is the warp density. Also count the weft density. (You can also count the number of tissue cycles + the number of zeros in 1 inch to calculate the warp density and weft density)

 

 

4. Organization classification of woven fabrics

● Three original (basic) weaves: plain weave, twill weave, satin weave.

(1) Organization point

A. Warp tissue point: warp yarn floats on top;

B. Weft tissue point: the weft yarn floats on it;

 

 

● Number of tissue cycles

The number of yarns in a weave cycle in the warp or weft direction of the fabric is the weave cycle number. For example, the number of cycles of plain weave is 2, the number of cycles of 1/3 twill weave is 4, etc.

 

 

● Change tissues and their fabrics

(1) Plain weave changing fabric

(2) Twill change fabric

(3) Satin weave texture

 

● Syndicated organizations and their fabrics

(1) Organized organization

(2) Zou Organization

 

 

(3) Dobby weave

 

Slurry-free drying quality

illustrate:

1. The standard dry mass of warp and weft yarns (g/100m) = yarn density ÷ 10.85, or the dry mass of warp and weft yarns (g/100m) = 53.74 ÷ British count; polyester cotton (65/35) ) The standard dry mass of warp and weft yarns (g/100m) = yarn linear density/10.32. The calculation should be to four decimal places and rounded to two decimal places.

2. The quality of the strands should be calculated based on the converted weight.

 

 

3. The total elongation of warp yarns is calculated as 1.2% for sizing single yarn. The total elongation of warp yarns of polyester-cotton fabrics is temporarily stipulated as 1% for single yarns and 0 for strands.

4. The elongation of the weft yarn is zero or very small depending on the weft binding process and can be ignored.

The total warp fly rate is calculated as 1.2% for fabrics with high linear density.

5. The total warp fly rate of polyester-cotton fabrics is temporarily stipulated to be 0.6% for high-density fabrics and 0.3% for medium-density fabrics (including strands).